June 19, 2024

I thought there might be bodies buried on my land, burial mounds made by the ancient people who once hunted and farmed around here in Eastern Tennessee. Or, several years ago when I saw one for the first time—before I realized there were dozens of these rock mounds—I thought it might be a cache of buried treasures. It was the kind of fanciful thinking that happens before you’ve done any investigation or given something a deeper thought. 

As recently as last week, I was still perplexed—so much so that I decided to dig into one. I was looking for usable rocks anyway. The mounds provided concentrated pickings for the step-sized flat stones I was looking to build stairs with. 

Rock mound I started to “get to the bottom of”
I bought a child’s sled at the Farmer’s Coop to help slide these big stones out of the woods.

Most of the circular mounds are seven to ten feet across. All are on the rhombus-shaped property, not on the other side of the road where I may build a cabin. 

I’m not sure what my plan was when I picked a mound and started to dig through fallen sticks and leaves. A few inches down this turned into a raft of loamy soil held together by thousands of roots and fine vines. I could pull away big chunks of the raft and throw them to the side revealing dozens of small, dark caves formed by the pile of rocks underneath. 

Before I cleared the whole top off the mound it became apparent to me that if I dug through the rocks I would only find more rocks until eventually I hit the ground. The prospect was not entirely uninteresting, but for the purpose of finding flat stones for stairs it would be a lot of work when I could simply go about, as I had been, to other mounds and simply pull the best ones from the sides or tops without doing a lot of digging. 

My reasoning about why the mounds might be here was quickly being honed by the hard work it was taking to get to the truth. Perhaps some sort of work-avoidance-bias was at play, but my back was beginning to protest the mind’s fanciful sparks in favor of its more logical leanings.  

Joppa Mountain sits directly behind this land. It is the southern most subrange of the Clinch Mountains that run 150 miles northeast into Virginia. Fifty feet away from where I’d parked Stewart’s truck on the pitted, rough gravel drive between my property and my neighbor’s the slope bends dramatically upward. My best guess is that at some point in ancient time these piles of rubble were enormous boulders that broke loose from the top and came bouncing down the mountain bowling over trees and anything else in their path.

Then nature did its work. Thousands of winters and summers, rainstorms, leaf storms, duff and ice, trees and vines all found purchase in each crack and cranny slowly cleaving part from part. What was once one became many. 

The logic behind this is that there are massive, picnic table-sized boulders yet untouched which sit as neighbors among the mounds. Their smooth tops don’t catch the leaf litter and twigs so easily as the mounds. Are these newer boulders or ones made of tougher material that is not so easily broken down? Did a single geologic event send all these boulders flying at the same time or has the mountain been sending them down on regular visits over thousands of years? For that matter, what proof is there that any of them tumbled from high? Couldn’t it be that they rose through the ground where they are or that the ground receded to expose them?  Farther away, across the road, there are broken rocks dispersed throughout the soil but none of these big boulders or heaps of rocks. That, to me, lends to the theory that the boulders tumbled from the mountain top.

I never thought I was very interested in geology but in using the land and in my small efforts to change it I find I want to know more of the secrets it holds. 

It’s very likely there are no human remains here. It might be easy enough for me to find out about the burial traditions of the ancient people who occupied this land and clarify what to look for. It is less likely that there are buried treasures unless you include all the things I don’t know about this place. That’s a treasure of a different sort. 

Here are some photos of recently spotted flora and fauna:

Red Salamander
Tulip-tree Beauty Moth
Stump Blossom
Red Admiral Butterfly–He hopped on my arm and rode with me for about a half mile in the truck.
Bank Haircap Moss

——————————

I made fried okra last night. I saw these beautiful baskets of fresh okra at a farm stand and I thought I’d give another go at frying some up. Last summer I wasn’t so successful. Growing up, fried okra was a fairly regular thing at my house and almost a staple at my grandmother Knott’s. 

My mother used to say she couldn’t boil water when she met my dad. I wonder if the thing that inspired her to become a good cook was the same thing that makes me fry okra when I come back to Tennessee. It’s a way to connect to home. 

I don’t seek out okra in California. True, it’s not as prevalent in grocery stores, but you can find it in the bay area without looking too hard. I suppose surrounded by the sights and sounds of my roots I want to plant myself deeper here. Otherwise it doesn’t come up much. Around winter holidays I crave the family’s cornbread sage dressing, but I have failed in my two attempts to make it. 

I have a scrawled recipe of the dressing folded over on an eight by eleven piece of scrap paper in my copy of Joy of Cooking. It’s the notes I took from my mom over the phone twenty-five years ago when I was living in a studio apartment in the Tenderloin. She would have been in Sevierville then—30 miles south of where I am now, close to the place where Dolly Parton grew up. 

“I don’t have a recipe,” she said.  “I just do it.”

“Well can you explain it to me?” I asked. 

“It’s all about the cornbread,” she said.

But it wasn’t. I can successfully make the family’s hard-crust cornbread but I can’t seem to work out the dressing from the ingredients and directions she gave me.

I don’t have a family recipe for fried okra but I knew it was nothing complicated. Out on the land yesterday I took a break from trail blazing to look some up. I sat on a cut log. Wifi is working better out there, but it’s slow. Between each stage of data loading I listened to the sounds of the midday forest—an absence of chirring, a breeze stirring in the tree tops, a bird call, something scratching in the leaves, silence. It hasn’t been as hot here as the forecast warned, but the kind of work I’m doing is still wearing me out. 

A grid of pictures with the recipe names and number of ingredients came up. I picked the one that had the fewest: egg, corn meal, wheat flour, salt, cayenne. 

On the way home I was too tired to stop at the store and, anyway, I didn’t want to buy flour if there was some in the cabinets. It turned out there was corn meal and flour—buttermilk corn meal, in fact. I already had the eggs.

I substituted black pepper for cayenne and mixed the dry ingredients (1 ¼ corn meal to ¼ flour in a paper grocery bag), cut up the okra, soaked it in egg for ten minutes and then shook it up together. It came out great. The key was not being chintzy on the frying oil. There needs to be at least a quarter inch in the pan. That’s how I failed last time. I probably also tried to fry too much at at time. It’s better to do two batches. Oh, and if you like it closer to brown than golden like me, fry it a bit longer than called for. 

June 12, 2024

I’m sitting in bed at my Aunt’s senior condo in Corryton, Tennessee. Linda and Stewart picked me up at the McGhee Tyson Airport in Knoxville last night. When I got to the condo I unpacked and for the first time switched to the small room with the double-bed instead of staying in the master bedroom with the king-sized one. I’m not sure why I didn’t do this before. There is too much real estate on that big bed. If I end up in the middle and wake up thirsty I can’t reach a glass of water on the night stand. It’s like being parched in the middle of a desert. If I want to check the time on my phone, I might as well commit to getting up and making a cup of tea as swimming to the other side’s night stand.

On the drive, Aunt Linda told me, “the place is exactly as you left it.” That’s true except for the little piles of desiccated bugs in numerous spots along the laminated hard wood floor, around the front and back door, and under the kitchen cabinets. The bugs are attached in strings of spider webs like buoys. Pull on one and all the others come trailing along.  Each pile is the domain of a single spider no bigger than my thumbnail. Some piles are abandoned and others still have the resident arachnid moving quickly (or in some cases slowly) to escape the raft of buoys swept into the dustpan. 

The bugs appear to be Armadillidiidae (aka roly polies) that have had all the fluid sucked from them and crunch under the foot like tiny, dark, round croutons. I wonder how this many roly polies make their way into the house? I never see a live one inside when I’m here. Do the spiders put on tuxedos and invite them in with a big smile saying, “Come into my parlor?”

Beneath the pile of corpses are lots of tiny white dots that appear like flicks of correction fluid. To the touch they feels like hardened paint. The first time I encountered them I got out a putty knife to scrape them up. That was before I discovered they’re water soluble. They disappear instantly with a damp rag. Is this spider shit? Sometimes smears of light red are mixed in. I suppose this is the blood of the prey. 

I unpacked my suitcase into the empty dresser and relocated a bookcase across the room to access a plug behind it. There are plenty of plugs in this room but this one suits my computer best. It seems that in their effort to make computers lighter and promote the cloud-world Apple is trying to get rid of holes on its machines. Mine has two of the same kind, both on the left side so if I can find a plug over there it makes for a more seamless, wired experience. All the better if I can also exit my bed from the right.

Today I will go out to my land and ponder the small efforts I can make toward a more seamless experience there which means a walk in the woods without spider webs in the face or ticks questing at the tips of leaves in hopes of attaching to my clothes. That means hacking away at the jungle to keep it at bay.

Eventually the seamlessness might encompass a cabin door with barely a sill to sweep my foot over, a fire place with logs piled up and kindling crosshatched beneath a grate awaiting a match, a full bookshelf illuminated by a lit lantern, a comfortable reading chair, a nice loft bed. 

For now, it’s enough to dream of these little things, to go out to the woods and play, moving ever so slightly in that direction. 

I’m happy to report some progress. My driveway permit was approved last week and the county installed the required double-walled culvert pipe that I purchased over the phone from the local Farmer’s Coop. The permit for a driveway is the only thing I needed approval for and once the county approves it they are the only ones who can install any required drainage–and every driveway needs drainage. You are at the counties’ mercy for this one thing and it won’t happen without them. I could build a 16 room “cabin” and they wouldn’t care. They don’t care about building codes or sewage or burning piles of trash. It’s all about making sure that water doesn’t pile up on the road.

After putting in the permit many moons ago I was loosing patience. A week before the end of school I called the highway commissioner’s office and spoke to the secretary there for about the fifth time.

“They’ve been so busy with these downed trees. That’s all they’ve had time to do lately,” she explained in a wonderful sing-song voice. 

The slow way she said downed trees I could almost see them falling. 

“Yes, but it’s been two years since I put in my permit application and I just want to know what is going on and if there is something I need to do to make this happen.” 

I told her I don’t have any place to park on the land and how I need a place to unload things and how I’m going to be building a cabin, etc, etc. 

She found my application. I heard her shuffling through papers. 

“Here it is sitting right on the desk,” she said.

I told her that I would be calling every day until I found out about the progress of my application.

“Well you go right ahead and call sweetie. We don’t mind talking to you.”

Jillian who’d overheard my conversation from the other room congratulated me on not loosing my cool. And then I didn’t for the next two days when I kept calling. 

My appeal won out. The secretary mentioned a worker in charge of putting in the drains and he called me for better directions to find my proposed driveway. I was at work and almost didn’t answer. The caller ID said Morristown, TN and I hadn’t known anybody there since I was in a British bedroom farce in that town after my stint at trying to open a restaurant with my mamma almost 30 years ago.

I didn’t hear from him for another week so I texted him last Thursday and instantly got back a message that said, “Installing as we speak”. I leapt for joy.

Then this picture came through after his crew finished putting in the pipe:

Was it time or persistence or kindness that got the job done? I think the best answer is yes.  

All’s swell that ends swell.